Sunday, 8 February 2015

Cassoulet.

“War! HUH! What is it good for?.” – War (Edwin Starr).

In the midst of the Hundred Years War, during the siege of Castelnaudary in Languedoc, by the English during the 14th century, a regional dish was born of conflict. The Cassoulet.

Cassoulet is a slow cooked casserole typically of meat (pork, sausage and duck confit) and white beans (haricot, lingot, fava beans). This assemblage of ingredients is a reflection of what little was available to the southern region and people of Languedoc during the Middle Ages.  Lore has it when Edward the Prince of Wales, in 1355 led the siege of Castelnaudry, villagers gathered beans and leftover meat into a large stew to fortify their warriors for battle against the siege. 

Different beans used of cassoulet, top to bottom: Lingot, haricot and fava. 

Cassoulet is traditionally presented in an earthenware pot (cassolle) with slanting sides local to the potteries from the terre d’Issel, Issel in the vicinity of Castelnaudry and prepared through a slow cooking method of using residual heat from being cooked in a hearth breaking down the beans allowing the fat and flavour of the meat to saturate into. Cassoulet is a dish of convivial nature best enjoyed through the pleasures of large company. It is said that because the meal created during the siege of Castelnaudry was so hearty, it gave village warriors the strength to emerge victorious. Thus, the cassoulet was deemed a symbolic defender of French culture. This is not surprising as certain foods can construct a cultural identity (Shugart, 2008) that highlights its solidarity as the meal that defeated an army. 

From top to Bottom: Castelnaudry cassoulet, Toulouse Cassoulet and Carcassonne cassoulet. 

The composition of cassoulet varies between regions based ingredient avaliability. Between the Languedoc towns of Toulouse, Carcassonne, and Castelnaudary, slight variations include meats used. Pork shoulder, sausage and duck confit for Castelnaudry Cassoulet, mutton for Carcassonne and duck confit, Toulouse sausage and bread topping for Toulose Cassoulet.
So, I’ll tell you what war is good for. Still absolutely nothing. But if any culinary good was to come out a war, it would be this particular regional dish from Languedoc, France.  

Photo and information sources used:
Shugart, H. A. (2008). Sumptuous texts: Consuming “otherness” in the food film genre. Critical Studies in Media Communication25(1), 68-90.

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